When you are packing a board bag for a trip of a lifetime to Sumatra you only take what you really trust. A few weeks ago, Matt Pagan zipped his well worn bag closed with some brave looking boards inside and has big smiles since returning.
The intrigue began as a set wave was approaching on a windy afternoon with crumbly waves on offer but fun pockets to be found along the way if you could connect the dots. We were trading waves and having some fun with a nod of the head to imply go and a smile for the eminent section as we surfed past each other that afternoon.
I had never met Matt, but we shared a few waves and like surfing does, a connection and common stoke was being felt. I hopped off my board and said "go". It was an urgent yet smooth entry to the first wave and he went about ripping the biscuits out of the entire ride. The lengthy paddle back had him returning with a puzzled smile just in time to spin and go on another one. This wave was a little cleaner and his performance even more polished now. Matt made his way beyond the break-line and hopped off to inspect the little nugget which had been so rewarding from these two rides. The joy filled expression seemed to be infused with elements of concern and a worried wonder. Treading water next to the floating craft his eye level assessment was as close up and as magnified as it gets. His words started, yet came out unsure but with careful diction ”Asymmetric, asymmetry it, it’s...wow! How long is is this board? “ I laughed and simply responded its amazing when design lets you enjoy the average days on a 4 foot 10 inch sled.
We traded info and Matt left his home in LA a couple days later with some interesting boards en route to the Indonesian islands and enjoyed the designs in Sumatra. It’s a simple concept of helping you surf the way that you are standing.
Matt and I stand with our left foot forward. Which way do you stand and how much help is designed into what you can enjoy both front-side and back?