The feeling of shaping boards really can be summed up in brief as a combination of flats and curves. This is the time to get out the planer and begin profiling the plain slab. Cut the bottom
rocker and establish the curve you’re after. Although it makes sense to cut a deck line first to establish reference, it's a unique set of parameters designing within your lumber profile. Go slow and be aware or the changing grains that are hard and soft throughout. I'm a fan of cross cutting this in and then blending things, nose to tail, before adding contours and foil. Design around the expected weight.
Carefully consider the amount of rocker and your rail lines apex. We will work hard to make the board as light as possible, to be best enjoyed in the sea, but it is wood and therefore the added weight needs to be considered in the design.
With the foil blocked out (flow of thick to thin) start mapping out the desired bottom contours
whether its “vee” concave, double or a collection of some.
Move on to the rails now and establish you mid lines by creating one facet on the bottom then one on the deck. Your chined edges will be the guiding lines to keep the flow and rail shape true as it follows the curving foil and ends on the nose and tail. Once you have got those mid lines set,
work from the apex out. This means always adding facets creating shadows for your guiding reference on the rail side of the board as you move in to the bottom and the deck. I see many people confuse this step, but it will set you up to maintain good cuts true to your desire and establish concepts already created in foil plan and rocker. The facets will be cut and only the inside angle is of importance when it comes to true and flowing line for your desired rail
shape. The top of this facet, always toward the inside of the board, will immediately be cut down to create a new facet. This understanding will confidently set you up to approach creating an octagonal or better said multi-faceted rail that is the true shape of the desired form and will
blend to the finish shape. One wants to be accurate and precise here to forgo lumps and bumps in your build. It's a simple matter of being accurate along the way. The later steps to this accurate work will be an easy matter of splitting these facets again and again going from angles to soft curves with out wondering high points.
I’ll hi-light this point now before we get too deep into this process, but when building a board you need a solid approach for what you doing, what you have done and what is to come. If you work accurately and completely you will depend on each previous step during the ones that follow and cause little frustration doing things out of flow that will be more difficult to execute and hard to see coming together. This is true for any board, everybody has an approach on how they put one together or what steps they follow. More than the order and intentions, be sure to have a picture in your mind of where you are and what you doing next, moving forwards only once each stage is completed well and can be depended on from tools to bottom
turn in the line up.
You should have a solid assembly of wood spot glued together with your paper seams roughed out into your design and close to your finish shape. In percentages lets say it should look like your board 95% there and feels way to heavy for going to the beach
with. I recommend doing all of this discussed stage with your planer. Its an amazingly accurate tool.
Hazards: Planer deconstruction, looking at light.